ithinkaboutwine

Burgundy part 3, THE CONCLUSION!

In Uncategorized on January 16, 2011 at 8:00 am

Friday in Burgundy began with a tasting at Domaine Marc Morey. This is another family domaine, in the village of Chassagne Montrachet. They produce 80% white wine, all of which are from estate property with the exception of their Rully, which is from purchased fruit (Rully is about 12km south of Chassagne Montrachet). Sabine Mollard is now the winemaker, she is the granddaughter of Marc Morey. The Morey name is one of three family names that appear very frequently in winemaking domaines in this area, so I managed to get a bit of a family tree.

Marc Morey of Domaine Marc Morey had two cousins named Bernard and Jean, both of whom have domaines which bear their names. Marc Morey also had a son, Michel, who started Domaine Michel Morey. Marc Morey’s daughter married Bernard Mollard, and Sabine is their Daughter. Marc’s cousin Bernard also had a son, Vincent, of Domaine Vincent Morey.

Everybody got all that?

The Marc Morey wines are quite good across the board, though far and away my favorite of the line was the Chassagne Montrachet 1er Virondot, which comes from a vineyard that was almost entirely re-planted by this family and is, for all intents and purposes, a monopole (2% is leased to another domaine, but even the fruit from that parcel is vinified at Morey.) This wine had beautiful, extracted, sweet fruit up front, well-integrated toasty character in the mid-palate, and a racy mineral finish with notes of spearmint. I liked the Chassagne 1er Vergers very much as well.

Also at this tasting, we tried the wines of Domaine Albert Morot. This domaine is located in Beaune, and is run by Geoffroy Morot and his wife, Marie. They specialize in single-vineyard Beaune 1er cru wines, almost all of which are farmed organically. The Marconnets vineyard is not, due to it being planted on a steep slope, which makes it too hard to work by tractor. All of the wines are bottled un-fined and unfiltered. My favorite of the lot was the Beaune 1er Teurons.

I was tired after lunch..

In the afternoon we had a tasting with Champagne Lamiable, a small family estate that produces excellent bubbles from 6 hectares. It may be that I am a sucker for Champagne, but I very much enjoyed all of their wines, particularly the Extra Brut and the 2006 Blanc de Noir.

In the evening we visited Xavier Monnot in Mersault. Xavier has a relatively large estate for Burgundy, at 16.5 HA. Everything is farmed sustainably, though he has not pursued organic certification because his vineyard sites are very susceptible to odium. Xavier produces reds and whites, from Bourgogne level to premier cru. Particular standouts to me were all of his premier cru reds: Maranges Clos de la Fussiere, Beaune Cent Vignes, and Beaune Toussaints. I also really liked the Bourgogne Blanc, which has always been a great value for me (in fact I had a bottle of the 08 in a restaurant in Beaune two nights before). And his Mersault 1er  Les Charmes and Puligny Montrachet “Les Folatieres” were both outstanding. Here’s a photo of Xavier Monnot with the Back of the Bus Syndicate.

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